Bergen

Stop 5 | June 3-5, 2015

 

As our Nordic adventure nears its conclusion, what better place than Bergen to take in the majesty of Norway.

Bergen, “Gateway to the Fjords”, may well be Norway’s most tourist-trafficked city. Second in population to Oslo, the city oozes charm, sophistication and an arty vibe. It also rains a lot, and suddenly!

With two nights to spend in Bergen, I booked us into a room at Det Hanseatiske, one of my all-time favorite boutique hotels. Located in Bergen’s historic Bryggen district, Det Hanseatiske has the perfect blend of rustic authenticity and super-modern Scandinavian design. The hotel’s name was inspired by the Hanseatic League, a Northern European mercantile network of centuries ago.

 

 
After checking in, Alex and I made a short walk to the Port of Bergen where we boarded a small boat destined for Holmen Island, home of the world famous Cornelius seafood restaurant. If you’re going to splurge a little, this is the spot to do it. We were treated to a glass of Prosecco upon arrival, followed by a hilariously ribald storytelling session by the restaurant’s seafaring proprietor. Fresh samples of salmon, scallops and mussels soon followed, and after a short while we were seated for a five-course dinner and wine pairing, with an unforgettable main course of minke whale (and please don’t judge – if I told you we ate a lesser rorqual, you wouldn’t have cared!).

 

 
The better part of our second day in Bergen was dedicated to exploring its hilly neighborhoods of triangular houses and dodging the rain inside randomly-chosen pubs. One interesting discovery was Appolon, a record store that specializes in vinyl and which offers a large selection of regional brews on draft. Alex and I left convinced that the time is nigh to invest in a record player for our home! A new hobby awaits …

But before then, the best part of the journey – a 12-hour excursion by bus, boat and train through the Sognefjord. The so-called “Norway in a Nutshell” itinerary really packs a wallop, especially if you don’t have the time to make the journey over a few days. Although it’s a very long day, it never feels rushed and there is enough variety and pauses along the way (including a fantastic brewery in Flåm) to make you feel satisfied.

 

 
Alex and I were fortunate to take the journey a few weeks before the tourist high-season. Even so, there were a hell of a lot of tourists. Yet, they are easily forgotten when cruising through mighty fingers of granite, unspoiled forestland, and roaring waterfalls.

After all of this, Alex is definitely now a Viking!

Thanks for following us on our Nordic Adventure!

Next up: Home to D.C.

Trondheim

Stop 4 | June 2, 2015

Trondheim, the largest city in the Trøndelag region of Norway, has always held a special significance for me.

My grandparents are from the area and their homestead on the tiny island of Hitra in the Inselfjord is located about a two hour’s drive north of the city. When I first visited Trondheim in 2001, I had the pleasure of meeting several elderly cousins from the extended family. Sadly, some of them have passed away, and two (my cousin Bjørn’s parents, Heffi and Sverre) are now quite frail and in nursing care. I have many wonderful memories from the times I’ve spent with them here over the past several years.

Trondheim is one of the most picturesque small cities I’ve ever visited in my travels. Everyone is fit and joggers and bicyclists can be seen at all hours of the day and evening. The residential areas are primarily located in the surrounding hills, and walking them can be quite a hike. Should you ever find yourself riding a bike and running out of steam, just let the world’s first and only bike lift help you out!

Alex and I only had one night to explore the city, and we certainly made the most of it. Any visit to Trondheim requires a visit to the magnificent Nidaros Cathedral, Trondheim’s best known landmark.

Nidaros ranks with some of Europe’s most exquisite houses of worship, and services continue to be offered. In fact, a brand new (and enormous) pipe organ was recently installed. The remains of St Olav are buried deep under the Cathedral.

After spending a couple of hours sampling some of the local Dahls pilsner, it was time to satisfy Alex’s craving for reindeer. And the best spot for reindeer and other regional delicacies is at Skydsstation, an impossibly charming café located in the Bakklandet waterfront district. Once an 18^th-century watering hole for traders and their horses, Skydsstation recently received an award from National Geographic for the world’s best café. No argument here! Alex and I highly recommend the three-course dinner and paired with a selection of beer and aquavit (aka the Norwegian mother’s milk).

For breakfast we were treated to a fabulous spread of cheeses (including the famous Norwegian brown cheese), fish, dried meats, caviar, pastries, eggs and all sorts of juices, cereals and yoghurts. After a brief shopping excursion (which included a stop at a store where you can watch jeans being made), we packed and made our way to the airport for our early afternoon flight to Bergen. We will pick up the story from there!

Next up: Bergen

Oslo

Stop 3 | June 1, 2015

The second half of Mike and Lexx’s Nordic Adventure began in Norway’s capital, Oslo, which may well also be the capital of Tesla Motors, perhaps the most commonly-sighted premium vehicle in this environmentally-conscious nation.

It’s a special treat to be in my ancestral homeland once again, especially with Alex. This is my fourth time to visit since 2001, and each time I’ve had the pleasure of visiting with my many cousins and relatives around the country.

Alex and I stayed with my cousin Bjørn Lilleeng and his family in Bryn, a close-in residential and industrial area of Oslo (the city centre is only one stop away on the local metro). Just up the hill from the Lilleeng residence is a remarkable meeting house that dates to the 1200s. For centuries the house hosted travelers passing along the St Olav Trail connecting Oslo in the south with Trondheim to the north. You can easily imagine those old Norwegians hiking by the stately trees lining the trail, just as they do to this day.

After lunch Alex and I visited the magnificent archeological holdings of the Viking Ships Museum. In ancient times Norwegians would conduct ship burials for important political or cultural leaders. On display at the museum are three 9^th-century ships, two of which are remarkably preserved. Alex and I were astonished by the precise symmetry achieved by those old Viking shipbuilders and carvers.

We spent the remainder of the afternoon and evening with Bjørn’s niece, Marte Tehrani and her husband Maz. First up was Vigelandsparken, the world’s largest outdoor sculpture garden and park. At the center is a 20m obelisk formed of human figures. It’s a truly magical place and it was wonderful to see the park in the springtime, full of flowers and sunshine.

 

A few years ago Oslo debuted a futuristic Hollmenkollen (the original ski jump from the 1952 Winter Olympics was demolished and rebuilt on the site). For 700 NOK ($100) the fearless (i.e. insane) can bring out their inner Eddie the Eagle and fly through the air on a zip line. No thanks! But hey, the views of the city and Oslofjord are splendid.

We’ll be back in Oslo to conclude our trip at the end of the week. Tomorrow, the adventure continues with a long but gorgeous journey by train to the Solem family hearth: Trøndelag.

Next up: Trondheim

Helsinki

Stop 2 | May 28-31, 2015 

 

After a one-night stay in Turku, Alex and I headed off to Helsinki. We were lucky to score advance tickets for the incredible price of EUR 9 (a two-hour journey!) and rode to Finland’s capital in comfort and style.

Travelers arriving at Helsinki Central Station are greeted by four giant sentinels holding aloft globes of light. They are one of my favorite iconic sights in the city, standing guard over the capital’s citizens and visitors.

 

An effortless check-in at the Glo Kluuvi Hotel was followed by a delicious traditional lunch of cabbage rolls, potatoes, lingonberries and lager. Just a skip away from the pub where we had lunch is the Finnish Evangelical Lutheran Helsinki Cathedral and stately buildings of the University of Helsinki, where my conference was held. Helsinki’s Neoclassical, Byzantine-Russian and Art Nouveau architecture gives the city a much different look than the other capitals of the Nordic realm.

 

Getting around the compact capital is a breeze, with many of the major sites an easy walk or tram ride away. Many D.C. residents will undoubtedly be shocked to know that Helsinki’s trams manage to share the road with cars without any cataclysmic effects, and some tram stations are even equipped with real-time digital monitors (I made sure to tweet these facts to the District Department of Transportation – not sure what good it’ll do).

Almost all of our meals in Helsinki were excellent, especially at Muru, a gastropub a short walk from the centre. Alex and I highly recommend a nightcap atop of the nearby Hotel Torni, where you can enjoy uninterrupted city views while watching the summer sun dip below the horizon at 10:30 PM!

 

One day we took an afternoon excursion to the small city of Porvoo. The old town is full of ramshackle wooden homes and many gift shops that mostly appeal to elderly ladies, although we did find a great spot by the river for a burger and beer.

 

Our final day in Helsinki was spent on Suomenlinna island, a UNESCO Heritage site that boasts a large fortress, swimming areas, scenic walking paths and some VERY large jackrabbits — or were they baby Jabberwockys?!

 

In any case, we had a fantastic visit to Helsinki and look forward to returning again sometime down the road. Now, it’s time to continue our Nordic adventure – here we come, Norway!

Next up: Oslo

Turku 

Stop 1 | May 28, 2015

They say getting there is half the fun, and there sure is a lot of “getting to” when making a journey all the way from Washington, DC to Turku in southwest Finland. Sure enough, United made it an adventure from the get-go.

After a mechanical failure delayed our flight by 90 minutes, I had given up hope we would make our connecting flight to Helsinki at the Frankfurt airport — which is really more a megalopolis than an airport, with innumerable terminals and all manner of ground shuttles conveying passengers from the tarmac to the gates. I’ll never complain about the lunar landers at Dulles airport again.

Yet, to my astonishment, upon landing a special shuttle awaited to transport me and Alex along with a few other passengers with tight connections. We were first taken to a kiosk to have our passports stamped, then were led by a little blond Fräulein who used a special access card to guide us through the inner bowels of Frankfurt airport, bypassing normal security procedures until we reached our departing gate.

After boarding yet another shuttle, we arrived at our waiting Lufthansa flight, parked hilariously just a few planes over from our arriving United flight. For the first time I felt optimism that our bags would make it after all – and they did!

Once we arrived in Helsinki we caught an express bus to Turku, a 2.5-hour ride through lush farms and countryside. Finland is evergreen with its bountiful conifers, but in late spring the landscape is especially verdant and colorful, with all sorts of wildflowers dotting the rolling hills.

Turku is the former capital and now third-largest city in Finland. Dominated by a large university, the city has a youthful vibe and splendid maritime feel. The river Aura winds lazily through the city center and is a great place for a jog or stroll, or perhaps a pint of Finnish lager aboard one of the many riverboats bobbing along the banks.

Alex and I only had one night in Turku, and should you ever find yourself in a similar situation, waste not one minute deciding where to eat and head directly to Kaskis (but book ahead – way ahead)!

Kaskis is a tiny, airy restaurant with classic Scandinavian furnishings and clever artwork, located across the Aura up on Kaskis Hill. The menu features a small selection of Scandinavian-inspired meat and fish dishes, but the main attraction is the six-course “Kaskis menu” and wine pairing. Come hungry! We couldn’t have asked for a better start to our Nordic adventure. The young staff were clearly enthused and proud about their work, and rightly so.

After walking off maybe a course or two, we made it back to the rustic Park Hotel on Rauhankatu street. The owner keeps a parrot in the lobby, and often lets it fly at will (the creature humorously likes to dive bomb unsuspecting guests — like your truly).

We fell asleep just after 11:00 pm, the sky still illuminated by the setting sun. After a jog along the Aura followed by healthy breakfast, we packed up and headed for the train station to continue our Nordic adventure.

Next up: Helsinki!